Monday, April 2, 2012

The Changing of the Guard: Tradition - Evolution - Innovation

Apprentice. Journeyman. Master. Not only are they a measure of a craftsman’s skill, they are also an institutionalized methods of learning.  The apprentice learns first through observation, then by mimicking and practice, and finally having mastered one thing, moves on to the next. This method of teaching our craft has existed for hundreds of years and continues to this day. Even the greats of my generation learnt how to cook this way. These traditions are a way of life. A means of passing on the accumulated knowledge of the ages to the next generation so that they can take up their banner and replace them. Much as a proud father and mother pass the torch to their sons and daughters. The problem with this type of learning is that due to the very rigid and structured nature, questioning and innovation are not encouraged. Why do we do something in a particular way? Because it has always been done this way, and always will be. Through repetition and rote. Do not question, do not deviate. One omelette, two omelettes, three hundred omelettes.

Tuesday, January 10, 2012

Lost In Translation - Part I - Saute, Sauteuse, Sautoir

When I was asked to explain the whole saute pan versus frying pan issue it seemed at first to be a rather simple thing. However, the topic itself raised a whole other series of questions for me. Why are there so many french terms used in english speaking kitchens? Why do we even use them instead of our own unique words? What led to french labels and techniques dominating the globe and spreading as far and as wide as it does today? Subsequent Lost In Translation articles will explore the culinary history and evolution of french cooking as well as it’s impact on cuisines around the world. However, let’s first look at the subject that kicked off this series of articles. The saute, sauteuse and sautoir.

Friday, January 6, 2012

The imperial pudding and cups affair

All this talk about imperial and metric measurements reminds me of a story. So sit back, grab something to drink and let me tell you about the imperial pudding and cups affair.

It's my second night at the restaurant and I'm still greener than the parsley they're chopping up for garnish. Hell, I'm still trying to duck the embarrassment of my first night where I popped out of the changing room all eager and ready to go, chefs jacket crisply pressed and gleaming white, clogs are polished to a marine sergeant's shine and I'm the only idiot with his apron looped around his neck like I'm Regis about to taste Emeril's shrimp gumbo in the studio kitchen. I walked up to my chef and the entire line across from the pass dropped dead silent as all the cooks looked at me like my head was sprouting a talking daffodil. If you want to know how to properly tie and apron what you do is fold the apron with the lower half in the front and the top in the back at the tie strings. You then make 2 folds the width of your 4 closed fingers fingers forward towards the bottom of the apron. Put against your waist, loop the strings around behind you and then tie in front then tuck it under the fold you made, TA-DA!!